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Rossio



Since the Middle Ages, a rossio in Portugal has meant a large multifunctional open space where people can do business or just hang out. Different parts of the city converge on Lisbon's modern-day Rossio Square, which is the gateway to the Tagus River and the city's major avenues. It has seethed with activity since the earthquake and today (with Christmas more than a month off) is the site of a Christmas market where vendors are selling cheese, hot wine and delectable little pork sandwiches called bifanas.

The slender column in the center of the square supports Pedro IV, who became king after bloody battles with his brother. Pedro declared Brazil independent and reigned until 1831. Some older Portuguese think the statue represents the Roman emperor Maximilian, whose mother was Portuguese. Since both men were generally represented in similar fashion and nobody can really see that high, the statue just stays where it is. No harm in that.



At the north end of the square stands the Dona Maria National Theater. Atop its pediment is Gil Vicente, the 16th century playwright considered the father of Portuguese theater.



At the opposite end of the square is the handsome little Bandeira Arch, named for the businessman who had it built at the end of the 1700s.



There are lots of cops around trying to stay on top of things. Here, they are conducting some identity checks. Apparently satisfied, they moved on. 



To the left of the arch, Rua da Betesoa runs up against the base of castle hill.



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